儘管科瑪的歷史可以追溯到銅器時代，但是它真正的發跡是在西元10到12世紀，這時它已是個頗具規模的村落，後來成為神聖羅馬帝國的領土，由於政治上的變遷，讓它成為重要城市。中世紀以後，科瑪的中產階級興起，並且與阿爾薩斯其他城鎮結盟，對抗原有的獨裁政治，這時科瑪也開始發展起來。文藝復興、宗教改革對科瑪都有很重大的影響，1698年，阿爾薩斯在科瑪設立議會。法國大革命後，科瑪與法國的政治越來越密切。
科瑪最著名的城區稱為「小威尼斯」，聽到這樣的地名就令人陶醉不已了。的確，科瑪是一個運河交錯的城鎮，一直到近代才因市區發展需要，將運河加蓋成為道路，只保留一些運河，因此，當你走在馬路上聽到流水聲，請不要太訝異 - 以上摘自旅遊資訊協會法國鄉村之旅手冊。
從Aix Les Bain出發後，大概拉了六、七個小時的車我們才抵達科瑪，這個時間已經夠秋名最速傳說繞完一圈台灣了吧，真是有夠久的，但窮人旅行，好像也沒有其他縮短的辦法，只能儘量忍耐。
來到阿爾薩斯視覺上第一個注意到跟南法不同的地方在於這個地區的房子，一幢幢木架外露、五彩繽紛的可愛房子，宛如進入童話王國般。這樣的木筋房不但可以看，還可以帶回家，售價從49歐到99歐不等，其他像裡克威爾、艾古斯海等地也有賣，但還是科瑪的精緻得多。若市街多繞幾圈，會發現很多模型根本就是對著當地的房子仿出來的，像是最右邊那座就是當地的一個著名景點 - Maison Pfister
我想，說「小威尼斯」是有點誇張了，目前大部份的河道都被掩蓋起來的情況下，實在沒辦法做太過份的連想。扣除掉不實頭銜的這個部份，其實他的運河沿岸還蠻美的，也是最適合拍到此一遊照的地方 : p
一定要提的是，來法國快十天，終於利用超市拍賣的機會買下了第一瓶可口可樂－這是個可樂比酒貴的奇怪國家 XD 一杯介於中杯與大杯之間的可口可樂麥叔叔要鏘我80塊台幣，而商店裡常看到一、兩歐的紅、白酒...長久住下去我一定會發瘋 XD
Collegiale Saint-Martin - Erected from 1235 on the site of a previous building, this collegiate church is the most imposing Gothic church in Middle Alsace. The south facade of the transept, with the Saint Nicolas portal, is the finest part.The Strange roofing of the tower replaces a spire which collapsed following a fire in 1572. As the seat of the constitutional bishopric of the Haut-Rhin district during the French revolution , Saint Martin has cathedral status druring that period.
著名的景點 - 聖馬丁教堂，座落在科瑪的正中心，完全沒有機會乎略它。上面那段就是從觀光導覽的牌子上抄下來的。聖馬丁教堂是我第一個親眼目睹的大型哥德式教堂，心中的震憾就不在話下了，早也拍、晚也拍，偏偏忘了要進去拍拍 (我很後面才知道教堂一般時間都是開放的，跟我們的廟有點像)。跟後來的聖母院比起來，這又算是小咖的了
注意到那個很不搭的圓盤沒 ? 阿爾薩斯地區將送子鳥 (鸛鳥)視為吉祥物，不知道那個是不是就是牠們的鳥巢 @@?
Quartier des Tanneurs - Bounded by Rue de Montagne Verte, Rue des Tripiers, Rue des Tanneurs and the place de I'Anciene Douane, the Tanners quarter which was restored between 1968 and 1974, is the epicentre of the protected old town centre. Its tall, timber-framed houses built during the 17th and 18th centuries, often have a final open-worked level, used by the craftsmen to dry theirs pelts.
很明顯的木筋房。我實在很佩服國外保存這些老房子的慧眼跟決心的。在台灣，一些老房子常常在還來不及反應的時候，就被屋主自己拆了起新樓...
大家一定一看就懂，只是很可惜的，我覺得應該是從日本傳過來的 XD
Maison Pfister - A Jewel of the Renaissance, this residence was built in 1537 for Ludwig Scherer, a wealthy hatter from Besancon. The paintings what decorate the facade, attributed to Christian Vacksterffer, represent the Germanic Emperors of the 16th century, the Evangelists, the church Fathers, allegorical figures, and biblical characters and scenes. Its current name comes from the merchant Francois-Xavier Pfister, who acquired it in 1841.
我最最喜歡的一棟房子，造型相當奇特有趣。
Ancien corps de garde - The Renaissance structure with its remarkable loggia, was built in 1575, from the framework of the Saint Jacques chapel, which sheltered the ossuary of the former cemetery of the collegiate church of Saint Martin. Originally intended to be a town hall, this building then housed the town guard. A nut market was once held nder the arcades of the eastern part.
The name of Koifhus, which was locally given to this building, recalls the economic functions of this centre in the control and taxation of imported, exported goods and of goods in transit. The ground floor of the main building, which was completed in 1480, was used as bonded warehouse for goods and the first room was used for meeting of Decapole deputies, a federation of ten imperial towns in Alsace. The north wing is 16th century addition, and the lodge on the left was the birthplace of General Rapp in 1771.
嗯，連續兩張用抄的大家就知道我是個到此一遊的過路客 XD
說實話，我不太肯定這是Koifhus之屋還是Ancien corps de garde。不過不論是Koifhus之屋，還是Ancie Corps de garde 還是聖馬丁教堂，那個奇特花紋的屋頂似乎是這一區的特色。
OOps 拍到讓人好害羞的畫面，害我緊張得都手振了，法國人真的很愛玩親親啊~~~
Quartier de la Poissonnerie - Thge Poissonnerie quay, where fish caught mainly in the Ill stocked and sold, is documented back to 14th century. Part of this district was damaged in a large fire in 1706, but some houses were rebuilt with the use of older materials. The whole area has undergone urban renovation campaigns between 1978 and 1981, and now falls within the conservation area.
這一段雖還是在運河沿岸，但比較邊邊一點，人少一點，走起來更愉快一點，不過也可能是PDA還在睡夢中，少一個人在拍照的時候在旁邊碎碎唸 = p
Fontaine Schwendi - Lazare de Schwendi (1522 -1583) was a diplomat turned commander under the holy Roman Empire for which he was rewarded with domain of Hohlandsberg, near Colmar. According to legend, the vine stem held by his status evokes the Tokay vines brought back from his compaigns in Hungary, which is in fact the pinot gris established in Alsace from the Middle Ages. This work by Bartholdi was exhibited at the 1897 Paris Exhibition and then moved to this fountain which was inaugurated in 1898.
其實，拍這個只為了上面那一串落落長中的一個名字，答案下一張揭曉。
Fontaine Roesselmann - Jean Roesselmann was a provost of the Imperial town of Colmar in the 13th century and died on 25 October, 1262 during a victorious battle defending the freedom of the city, against the Bishop of Strasbourg's supporters. This status is the work of Auguste Bartholdi, inaugurated in 1888, and bears the features of Hercule de Peyerimhoff, the mayor deposed by the German authorities, a few years after the annexation of Alsace, for refusing to submit to the new regime.
猜到了嗎 ? 那個人名就是「Auguste Bartholdi」。提這個人名大部份應該還是霧沙沙的，但若我說「自由女神像的作者」，應該所有人都了了。下圖拍的是雕像旁的廣場而不是雕像本身
其他一些夜景的部份，科瑪的晚上算是非常安全的，拍照之餘也可以好好感受夜色中的歐洲。不像之後的史特拉斯堡跟巴黎，晚上出去拍照都會害怕自己跑到隔天的國際新聞中 XD
算算照片，在科瑪號稱待了三天，但端著DSLR亂掃射的結果是一堆重覆且低品質的照片，七刪八扣後也沒剩多少了，加上第一天是拉車，到的時候是下午三點，第二天白天去酒莊，一樣下午回來，第三天一早跟科瑪說881，嗯，上一回放話說照片會大爆炸是有點講太早了 XD 下回來說說這次行程中最美的兩個鄉村小鎮 - 里克威爾 & 艾古斯海
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